103 replies to this topic
Posted 2007-07-21 09:46:20
 Nienke, on 2007-07-18 06:34:49, said:
Nickkbh, on 2007-07-18 09:25:54, said: I have a few questions.
I am having my first (own) dog soon.Had plenty whe i was a kid....
And i want her to be well behaved.
But how old should a dog be before you can start training it.
And is there something you can do already as a small pup.
She will be 2 months when i get her.
Thanks
Nicolai
Hi Nicolai,
Education of a dog starts as soon as it enters its new house, whether that's a young puppy or an older dog. And there is an awfull lot you can do and have to do with such a young puppy.
Actually you start already BEFORE the puppy arrives:
* make your house and garden puppy proof. A puppy only knows what's safe and dangerous through learning experience. Think similar as if it's a toddler ... swimming pool/fishpond, poisonous liquids, electrical wiring. But also, puppies chew, play and explore. Think of the laundry, shoes, paws of chairs and tables. Forget about a beautifull garden for the first year of puppies life, or fence parts of.
* set rules on what the dog is allowed to do and what not. For example, jumping up is often learned by the puppy and unconciously taught by the owner during puppyhood. If you don't mind a 40 pound dog jump up at you after having danced through the mud, then there's is no problem. But if you don't be aware that you avoid this problem from developing from the moment the pup arrives. Plus, that everybody in your household has to follow the same rules.
* and that brings me to the following point, train yourself and your family member in being consistent, as consistency is a keypoint in a dog's (and human's) education.
* gather information, books, DVD's and info from the net on how to take care and educate a pup.
Puppy arrived:
* toilet training
* socialization with all sorts of people and children, other dogs and animals, traffic, and all the different environments and circumstances the dog can possibly encounter in its life. All experience should be positive ones in the mind of the puppy.
* puppy basic obedience course in a playful but clear and consistent way and in a dog friendly manner.
Contrary to a general believe, very young puppies do learn and they learn very fast. Many of the undesired behavior has their roots in early puppyhood, where it easily could ahve been avoided or guided in desired behavior.
I'll hope this gets you started 
Nienke
It certainly will.
Thanks.
I will post more when i most propably need more help:-)
Cheers
Nicolai(soon with thailands first bichon havanese)
Posted 2007-09-19 00:31:47
I have a puppy about 5 months old. It needs training. It has attached itself to my girlfriend. It has very clearly understood and exploits the fact that she never insists on obedience. She simply coddles and indulges it.
I want to train the pup; beginning with basic obedience. By that I mean simply to come when called. At present he won't unless he feels like it, or if he finds he can't run to my girlfriend instead. If he senses any insistence/frustration in my voice he simply looks to run away or to seek refuge with my girlfriend.
For the most part I can get my girlfriend to cooperate in at least not interfering with my training.
The pup is a miniature pinscher and very intelligent. Maybe this breed isn't a trainable one.
I'd really appreciate advice on the random thoughts below - or otherwize.
Should I refrain from training for now, spend a month or so spoiling it so it becomes as much at ease and secure with me as with my girlfriend - and then start the training?
Should I do bouts of obedience training where 1) the pup has nowhere to run away to, and 2) my girlfriend is not in sight?
Should I simply use friendly repetition and reward the response? Or should there be a degree of authority/insistence in my voice?
Should I insist that my girlfriend change her ways with the pup, or is it possible for the pup to adopt a dominat role with her but accept an obedient role with me?
Sometimes I'm tempted to give up, get another pup which I keep the gf away from, and which I can train from the outset. (This one spent its early monthsw with her.) But is it possible for an obedient, trained pup to live happily in the same house with a spoilt disobedient one?
Posted 2007-09-19 18:46:18
triffid, on 2007-09-19 00:31:47, said: I have a puppy about 5 months old. It needs training. It has attached itself to my girlfriend. It has very clearly understood and exploits the fact that she never insists on obedience. She simply coddles and indulges it.
I want to train the pup; beginning with basic obedience. By that I mean simply to come when called. At present he won't unless he feels like it, or if he finds he can't run to my girlfriend instead. If he senses any insistence/frustration in my voice he simply looks to run away or to seek refuge with my girlfriend.
For the most part I can get my girlfriend to cooperate in at least not interfering with my training.
The pup is a miniature pinscher and very intelligent. Maybe this breed isn't a trainable one.
I'd really appreciate advice on the random thoughts below - or otherwize.
Should I refrain from training for now, spend a month or so spoiling it so it becomes as much at ease and secure with me as with my girlfriend - and then start the training?
Should I do bouts of obedience training where 1) the pup has nowhere to run away to, and 2) my girlfriend is not in sight?
Should I simply use friendly repetition and reward the response? Or should there be a degree of authority/insistence in my voice?
Should I insist that my girlfriend change her ways with the pup, or is it possible for the pup to adopt a dominat role with her but accept an obedient role with me?
Sometimes I'm tempted to give up, get another pup which I keep the gf away from, and which I can train from the outset. (This one spent its early monthsw with her.) But is it possible for an obedient, trained pup to live happily in the same house with a spoilt disobedient one?
All dogs are trainable : reading your post I get the impression that you have not read my training guide which start at the Top :
Read this first it covers all aspects of training :
If you have read my apologies, then it means you have not understood : Let me know then we will take it from there
Cheers
Posted 2007-09-19 19:21:38
i have found it a lot easier to train bitches than dogs ,anyone else found this
Posted 2007-09-19 20:30:22
macb, on 2007-09-19 18:46:18, said: All dogs are trainable : reading your post I get the impression that you have not read my training guide which start at the Top :
Read this first it covers all aspects of training :
If you have read my apologies, then it means you have not understood : Let me know then we will take it from there
Cheers
I did read your initial training posts. But I thought that before getting even to the first lesson on walking the dog on a leash I needed to teach him to come when he is called. But thinking about it now I think you will say the basic obedience comes as part and parcel of the specific lessons - walking, sitting, etc.
Ok. So I'll do that.
The dog is tiny, just 5 months old and of a nervous disposition (miniature pischer breed characteristic perhaps).
Shall I wait till he's older or start the training now?
Can I buy the appropriate chain easily at a thai shop?
Given that he's a nervous and completely unaccustomed to training and a leash how short/long should the sessions be?
I appreciate your interest. But I will go through your posts again carefully and try to apply them to the pup.
Posted 2007-09-19 22:19:11
Hi,
I would certainly start training, or better, educating him straight away. Do not wait. Because if you wait, chances are that undesired behavior develops more and roots in, making it more difficult to change it into desired behavior. What behavior is desired and undesired depends fully on the owner.
I definitely do not suggest to use a (choke) chain, but to use a good fitting leather or nylon collar and a 1.5 to 2 meter lead. Sometimes, I even start with a 5 meter lead, depending on the dog.
The most important part of training/education is having the attention of your dog. The way a dog pays attention can differ: in general, a) a dog keeps a close eye on the handler afraid for the next correction, jerk on the lead, or punishment,  a dog keeps a close eye on the handler for the next exciting and enjoyable move.
Under A, the dog will show avoidence behavior. He keeps a good eye on the handler in order to avoid an unpleasant feeling, which is the correction. All to often a dog learns that off lead it can avoid this unpleasant behavior by keeping safe distance as soon as the handler signals irritation or worse.
At my kennel, I work according option B. I focus on desired behavior. For example, when my dogs come when I call them I ALWAYS reinforce this behavior by giving them a pet and or praise them. When I started the recall training I would give them a delicious treat as reward. Now, once their behavior has become reliable I mainly praise and/or pet, but on occasion they still get a treat, just to remind them that they better can come quickly when I call, as they never never know if something nice is awaiting them.
The treat needs to be delicious in the dog's mind which can differ under the circumstances, such as in the house he may find a piece of cheap hotdog something he really likes to come for but outside with loads of distraction it may be he won't come for that, but he may come for cheese, boiled chicken or salami. It is important, though, not to use the treat as a lure, meaning don't to show it to the dog. You give it only once he has come close enough to hand it over to him.
In the beginning you ALWAYS need to reward his coming with a delicious treat, making yourself reliable in the mind of the dog. Over time, and keep in mind that this is a step-by-step process, once the dog starts coming immediately on the recall you can start with only praising and petting, with sometimes the treat.
When I teach basic obedience at the kenel or as a dog-with-owner lesson program I always start with attention training. Without the attention of your dog, it is very difficult to get him/her to obey. Once I've taught the dog to pay full attention and to follow me where ever I go, it is actually a piece of cake to teach the dog to follow on the lead, as it is just a change of positioning yourself, not the dog. With punishment based training it is often the dog who is put/dragged into position, which is quite unpleasant to the dog.
With positive reinforcement training the dog will follow because it WANTS to follow, not because it has to follow.
Teaching a dog to obey does not occur only during training sessions on the training field. The most important part occurs during daily life and through a proper interaction with the owner, that is build on mutual respect and trust. For a proper interaction the owner needs to learn the basics about dog behavior (development), -language, hierarchy (in the dog's mind), etc.
Over the years I've trained several Min Pin's and they certainly are trainable. However, the younger you start the better.
Oh, and in answer to part of your question "if it is possible for the pup to adopt a dominant role with your gf": yes, that's certainly possible but not advisable, because if the dog gets a dominant role over your gf he can show this one day by aggression. After all, it is the right of a dominant one to protect that what he thinks is his, to protect his privileges, to ignore commands and tell the lower rank to back off when challenged.
And to the whole question "if it is possible for the pup to adopt a dominant role with your gf but accept an obedient role with me'': yes, that's also very possible. But as you can read the reason above, it is much better when the dog learns to accept the lowest rank in your household.
Nienke
Certified dog trainer
LuckyDogs
Posted 2007-09-20 00:02:52
Thanks Nienke for your full and very helpful reply.
I would appreciate your time in clarifying some general preliminary queries that come to mind as I read your post:
1) How do I teach the all-important 'paying attention'? Is this done on the leash, so that pretty much ensures I have his attention? How long should this go on at a time? Should I aim to succeed in this first step before attempting anything else? Or can this be done as part of the walking training (as per McB's first lesson)?
2) Is it helpful to the training (or likely to be traumatic) to keep the dog on a leash and under training for as long as possible during the day?
3) How can my girlfriend be most helpful to me? For example shall I tell her to ignore the dog if it runs to her for refuge? Or even to ignore him all the time until he is trained? (The latter will be hard to implement). And when I'm away, what then?
4) If the pup doesn't come when called - eg when he is outside - how do I respond? Ditto if he doesn't respond when he is indoors - ie when I could simply go across and get him?
5) Should one choose a purely reward based method? Is there any harm in mixing in the very occasional admonition with it? Only carrot, never stick?
6) How long should the training - at least the 100% coming when called - take? For a MinPin - such a nervous dog!! Not really my choice - she got it in my absence!! But I need to now train it to make it a normal household member.
Posted 2007-09-20 10:11:48
triffid, on 2007-09-20 00:02:52, said: Thanks Nienke for your full and very helpful reply.
I would appreciate your time in clarifying some general preliminary queries that come to mind as I read your post:
1) How do I teach the all-important 'paying attention'? Is this done on the leash, so that pretty much ensures I have his attention? How long should this go on at a time? Should I aim to succeed in this first step before attempting anything else? Or can this be done as part of the walking training (as per McB's first lesson)?
2) Is it helpful to the training (or likely to be traumatic) to keep the dog on a leash and under training for as long as possible during the day?
3) How can my girlfriend be most helpful to me? For example shall I tell her to ignore the dog if it runs to her for refuge? Or even to ignore him all the time until he is trained? (The latter will be hard to implement). And when I'm away, what then?
4) If the pup doesn't come when called - eg when he is outside - how do I respond? Ditto if he doesn't respond when he is indoors - ie when I could simply go across and get him?
5) Should one choose a purely reward based method? Is there any harm in mixing in the very occasional admonition with it? Only carrot, never stick?
6) How long should the training - at least the 100% coming when called - take? For a MinPin - such a nervous dog!! Not really my choice - she got it in my absence!! But I need to now train it to make it a normal household member.
1. Rewarding with treats is part of what is called shutzun training, it never used to be acceptable in training Police dogs but now it is, I would find a play thing that the dog likes and would become possessive over ie for tug of war etc, once the little fella enjoys playing when you have the play article maybe an old rag your dog will come to you for play or toget his property.
2 You need to get the dog used to being on a lead, but not all the time used the lead in training sessions and for friendly fun walks, not leave on all the time ,you might want to leave a collar on for a while if the dog is not used to this.
3. You and your girlfriend need to bond with the dog together, if your away it is understandable that the dog will be closer to your girlfriend, really if your away for long periods then the main handler should be your g/f, sit together and play with the dog
4 It all takes time dont try to run before you can walk. the recall comes with the heel work, with you little dog you have got to scale down my training guide to suit him be gentle as he is nervous, you need to bond with him first.
5 command a praise verbally and with petting for reassurance with the hand, any light correction is done with the lead remeber your dog is nervous any over correction could make your dog worse and a step backwards command praise command praise with gentle voice and gentle petting
6 How long is a piece of string my friend, training should be little and often, but I think you got to Bond first because you have a nervous little dog, bitches I have found are not more difficult to train no more difficult than males but then I have never found over the years that training a dog was difficult anyway because of the reward and enjoyment I get from it
Hope this helps pal
Posted 2007-09-20 16:24:29
macb, on 2007-09-20 10:11:48, said: 1. Rewarding with treats is part of what is called shutzun training, it never used to be acceptable in training Police dogs but now it is, I would find a play thing that the dog likes and would become possessive over ie for tug of war etc, once the little fella enjoys playing when you have the play article maybe an old rag your dog will come to you for play or toget his property.
2 You need to get the dog used to being on a lead, but not all the time used the lead in training sessions and for friendly fun walks, not leave on all the time ,you might want to leave a collar on for a while if the dog is not used to this.
3. You and your girlfriend need to bond with the dog together, if your away it is understandable that the dog will be closer to your girlfriend, really if your away for long periods then the main handler should be your g/f, sit together and play with the dog
4 It all takes time dont try to run before you can walk. the recall comes with the heel work, with you little dog you have got to scale down my training guide to suit him be gentle as he is nervous, you need to bond with him first.
5 command a praise verbally and with petting for reassurance with the hand, any light correction is done with the lead remeber your dog is nervous any over correction could make your dog worse and a step backwards command praise command praise with gentle voice and gentle petting
6 How long is a piece of string my friend, training should be little and often, but I think you got to Bond first because you have a nervous little dog, bitches I have found are not more difficult to train no more difficult than males but then I have never found over the years that training a dog was difficult anyway because of the reward and enjoyment I get from it
Hope this helps pal
Thanks Macb
I'll keep all that in mind too. Will try to get my gf on board too - as much as possible. But at present the dog is very attached to her and rather wary of me. So I don't want her there too much or the dog will not bother bonding with me at all.
le
Posted 2007-09-20 18:40:23
first:
having mostly worked with large animals and large dogs, i have been 'reprogrammed' in training ideas with our newest and most spoiled addition: foofoo the lhasa apso....
i am petite but am very dominant (size is all in the mind): so i learned to 'tone down' my voice, actions, etc: i got down to foofoo's eye level and spent time (15 minutes is a long time for a young dog) playing and gently handling him every day; i used nienke's treats method (i always keep something small and tasty in the pocket) and would call out: foofoo and when he would look at me, he got the snack (remember: dinky small pieces... the dog never notices if its a lot or a little, as long as he got the tasty tidbit, i mean fingernail size pieces) -- thats the start of attention training. to get him to notice u.
training is a daily minute by minute thing. it is not like u program the dog, and then it works. it is an ongoing forever process like raising a child. even a well behaved dog needs to have reinforcements for good behaviors and all dogs learn (from us usually) bad habits that have to be reshaped.
if u are calm, then the dog will calm down...
as for u and your girlfriend: agree ahead of time on some rules: is the dog allowed on the sofa? is he allowed outside offlead? can he sit at the dinner table or should he wait in his bed until u finish eating? once u decide on a few rules, u should both stick to them, although dogs very early learn who has which rules.
example: my husband refuses to have foofoo in the bed. foofoo has learned that when anon is in the shower, foofoo can come in to the bedroom, sit on the bed (bed is on the floor) and say hi to me. when he hears the shower turned off, he runs off and waits outside the bedroom.
speak with your dog, in a calm low voice using his name: foofoo wants to go for a walk? where's foofoo's leash? foofoo, lets walk.
u may sound like a baby talker, but it helps the dog and u bond. this baby talk babble is not for use when giving instructions... in which case u will use a firm, calm tone: foofoo, lets go (for when going on the leash). remember that both u and your girlfriend must use the same words/cues when giving instructions, although most dogs learn quickly, several words in whatever languages are spoken at home for most things. foofoo speaks thai and hebrew. nala the boxer speaks hebrew and english. nero (rip) spoke finish and hebrew.
foofoo being a very small dog and a one person dog, i found harder to work with then the boxer and he is much more 'mine' then anon's.
good luck
bina
forgot: try playing, then a short training session in an enclosed area at first, then a play session... u have to see what makes the dog tick: he likes to chase balls? then play ball. he likes walks, then walk and talk. he likes to be brushed, thats good , use that as a reward after a session EVEN IF HE DIDNT DO THINGS LIKE U THINK HE SHOULD.
Posted 2007-09-21 13:49:43
Hi,
I think Macb and Bina have given quite nice answers to the questions you've asked already.
As you state that the dog is quite nervous and will 'take refuge' with your gf, I would be very careful with giving any correction when training on the lead, though. IMO it's better to make yourself quite interesting in the eyes of the dog through play, treats, nice walks and anything else that the dog really likes and is acceptable for you.
As for your gf: it is very possible that she is reluctant to get involved in training the dog, because she hasn't a clue of how doing this. It makes me think of myself when people start talking about computer stuff in cyberspace language of which I have just an iny-tiny bit knowledge. My first reaction is usually that it puts me of. Stupid, I know. However, occasionally I come across a person who very patiently is willing to explain me certain stuff, and a whole new world opens up, and then I even start enjoying it.
Through first showing your bf, by just doing some training with the dog in her presence, that you actually can teach it all funny tricks (like just a simple sit or down, shake hand, walk on hind paws or roll over, with a little happy doggy that really enjoys doing so), and then slowly involving her in the sessions, she might find out that she also is capable of making her dog follow up commands.
Fairly often I come across people, who actually are quite shy to do any training with their dog, afraid of making mistakes. But once they see that they themselves also can make the dog do things, such as getting his/her full attention with an enthusiastic wagging tail, they more too often start enjoying to work with their animal.
Wish you good luck,
Nienke
Manager LuckyDogs Ltd. Prt.
(see profile for website)
Posted 2007-09-21 13:53:14
This is a good useful thread
Wiley Coyote
Posted 2007-09-22 20:31:08
Thanks for that, I am pleased to have the support of Bina and Nienke on here :
Posted 2007-09-24 23:28:06
Yes, the advice has indeed been both helpful and interesting.
Since the dog is no more tha 5 months old, it is nervous and prone to keep away from me, it treats my girlfriend as refuge, I have decided that
1) I will tell my girlfriend to avoid giving it much attention
2) I will suspend training or the remotest show of displeasure for a while and concetrate on gaining its confidence (even if not its affection)
3) I will ensure whenever I'm not away to be the one that gives it its daily food
4) After a few weeks of this - and hopefully having gained that confidence - I will contemplate the training on a leash.
5) Until then training will be no more than reward whenever it comes when called; and petting whenever it voluntarily approaches me.
The only complication is that I am not going to around continuously - a couple of absences of 10 days or so will come up in the next 2 months. I hope that time with my girlfriend will not undo my attempt at 'bonding' with it.
And all the while the MinPin is getting used to a carefree, marauding life around the fairly extensive grounds. I know from the one occasion I tried it that the leash is going to be a very rude shock for him when it eventually does come. But until then it'll be the techniques and regime indicated by Bina and Nienke.
Let's see.
And thanks, everyone.
One other thought (or, complication perhaps) comes to mind. I have another pup of a similar age - a thai mongrel from the moo ban that I adopted. Will it help or be a hindrance if I train it before (and in sight of) the nervous MinPin? Or with it? Or leave that for afterwards? Or not bother to do it - given that it is destined anyway to live outdoors, and already does come when called without fail?
Posted 2007-09-25 11:31:29
Hi Triffid,
IMO you can start obedience training (starting with attention training) with the minpin already, provided the training sessions are fun with lots of fun for both the dog AND you and rewards for the dog. If the minpin is not used to a lead, you can start with a long lead of not less than 5 meters which should be slack at all times. When the dog enjoys these training sessions, it will speed up the bonding with you AND the dog will remember after you come back from a trip. After all, each training session means fun time with you! Each training session takes only 5 minutes at the time, several times a day, if possible.
Of course, most important part is NEVER EVER correct the dog, not even the slightest tug on the lead!
It should be no problem whatsoever, to start up training with the Thai dog as well. However, when the dogs really enjoy the training sessions, you will see that when one is loose it will be hard to train the other one as the first one will be right there with his nose in between. This means you need to tie up one dog or in another way confined when you train the other one. Only later on, when both dogs respond well to commands, you can start training them together. Of course, during daily life, when you call one dog and they happen to come both enthousiastically, you should reinforce both good behaviors.
Another option is, provided that the Thai dog is not wary of you, that you start up training with him. The minpin will observe this training and see that the Thai dog has lots of fun. It happens more too often that the anxious dog will get curious and want to have part in the fun. Be careful with corections here, as also this the minpin will observe. Therefore, the training sessions and daily life interaction with the Thai dog should be positive reinforcement.
If you go to my profile and click on my website, you can find the following articles (both in English and Thai):
Teaching the basic commands
Guidelines towards a well-behaved dog
Starting out right with your new puppy
You might want to print the Thai version and show it to your g/f.
Hope it will be of help to you.
Nienke
LuckyDogs Resort and Training Center
(also cat boarding)
Posted 2007-09-26 21:09:29
Thanks for that further and particular advice, Nienke.
Just now the minpin is miserable because my gf is away. Moreover it is still very wary of me (my fault for having corrected it in my early, ignorant days - even though that's now 3 weeks ago). I want to wait for her to get back so the minpin feels secure, before I consider the leash, even for 5 minutes at a time. So for the week I'll concentrate on calling, petting and rewards - and hope for progress in the bonding process. I'll also use the time to read your training page.
After that I'll get on with your training advice - probably with both dogs simultaneously.
I assume the minpin is showing typical traits of the breed, and not that I have a specially difficult dog or that my gf or I are paying a price for bad initial mistakes.
Thanks again.
Posted 2008-01-06 00:25:46
A follow up for our Pack, (sorry McB, I know you don't train to the pack ideal, but it sure as hel_l has worked for us)
@Nienke, A very big  Chego is fantastic, we now have a dog that we can control (you showed us how to work him) he never pulls on the lead, sits when he is told (on the walk he sits when we stop), when told he goes to the down almost instantly, and can stay until told free.
After saying that, he will never be the family pet you can just let run around and mix with people, but as you know, thats not what we were looking for...... We got the dog we needed. And with the right signal he WILL go in.
Thankyou for your help
PS. We have found that he needs 2 x 1.5 hr walks a day to maintain a good state of mind, without the double dose of excercise he seems to get too excited (and can get some what unpredictable).
Posted 2008-01-06 09:05:10
How nice to hear/read that things have worked out with Chego. Must admit that I was thinking of how he was doing. So a big thanks for the update!
Chego is a very lucky dog that he has found his home with you. Wow, two times a day 1.5 hr walk, not many dogs get that privilege! He must look extremely strong.
I also think that both of you need a big pat on the shoulder, as it is YOU who have trained/educated your own dog, I only gave the guidelines.
Nienke
Posted 2008-07-16 14:41:22
Luckydog, on 2007-04-30 20:02:00, said: macb, on 2007-04-30 19:54:39, said: Mods I wonder if you would consider pinning this Topic:
As it is prevelant to the dog owners, and not everone uses the search feature or scrolls through all the Topics
Your decision of course
sorry to be ignorant but what exactly is 'pinning the topic' and is the training info here carried on somewhere else?? my dog actually seems to be getting somewhere with this
Posted 2008-07-16 20:48:59
Pinning the topic is just forum board speak meaning, this thread will always be towards the top and not fade away as a normal thread. A good way to carry on the topic is to ask a quesiton in this thread if it is obedience related. Otherwise you could always start up a new thread in this forum. It may or may not get answered on a timely basis, so if you ask on a pinned thread, it will stick around and be seen.
Cheers
Posted 2008-09-13 14:15:43
Macb may we thank you sincerely for all your input.
We are getting our 2 new puppies at the end of next month and your training expertise is greatly appreciated.
Once we have our puppies (german shepherd/rottie cross) we will do our best to follow your helpful instructions and training trips.
macb, on 2007-02-08 09:33:07, said: TRAINING THE DOWN
Now we have our dog walking to heel we can incorperate the down as part of his walking to heel routine:
It is easier initially to put your dog in the down from the sit posistion, so we are walking to heel we stop give the command SIT. Now from this position combine the Command DOWN as you take the lead to the ground underneath his head and with your left hand on his shoulders pushing him gently down once then when down dont forget the praise keep him there when you stand, now bring the lead up and command sit, then you can move on walking to heel.
In time you will have walking to heel, sit, and down.
DOWN is considered the safe position never recall him from the down, if you dog is down place him in the sit first then recall him.
You will find as you progress that you dog will sit on his own when you stop and will go down when you say.
The thing to rember is not try to do to much and bore the dog. always remeber praise and play at the end of a session
More soon
Posted 2008-09-13 15:21:36
I would like to know why the dog experts on this thread have not mentioned the use of 'hand signals' to train dogs instead of the age old voice commands? I have found that after training numerous field dogs over the years hand signals are much more effective than voice commands. Also having a few house pets over the years that had gone deaf the hand signals came in rather handy.
Did you know that you can actually train your dog where to chit and piss? This comes in handy when confined to a small yard or not wanting to scour the whole yard cleaning dog waste.
Posted 2008-09-15 11:07:43
dingdongrb, on 2008-09-13 15:21:36, said: I would like to know why the dog experts on this thread have not mentioned the use of 'hand signals' to train dogs instead of the age old voice commands? I have found that after training numerous field dogs over the years hand signals are much more effective than voice commands. Also having a few house pets over the years that had gone deaf the hand signals came in rather handy.
Did you know that you can actually train your dog where to chit and piss? This comes in handy when confined to a small yard or not wanting to scour the whole yard cleaning dog waste.
what you do is in cooperate the hand signals with the voice commands from the start of training: trying to describe hand signals with text is difficult I didnt want to go to deep with my training thread. And yes i do know about dog toilet training
Posted 2008-09-16 21:01:35
I've been reading this thread with interest for a while now. I have a question for the experts- My dog is pretty good: Intelligent and learns quickly although a little wilful - But in high stress situations his training seems goes out of the window as other have mentioned.
However, my question is specific to these situations. My dog seems to have quite naturally picked up this sort of sequence that MacB suggests, I guess as a result of the way I trained him, (I.e. 'sit' before 'come here', then 'heel', then 'down' over time) where he will come to me before he sits (usually quite slowly). Sometimes I just want him to sit immediately at a distance rather than come then sit.
Do any of you guys have any suggestions how to over-ride this behaviour? It's usually in high stress situations such as another dog when I want him to respond very specifically as because as I said, he tends to lose focus quickly in these situations and it's handy to be able to grab him.
Additionally do Bina, Macb, Nienke have any views on harnesses as opposed to collars or choke chains?
Thx
Slip
Posted 2008-09-17 10:16:27
Slip, on 2008-09-16 21:01:35, said: I've been reading this thread with interest for a while now. I have a question for the experts- My dog is pretty good: Intelligent and learns quickly although a little wilful - But in high stress situations his training seems goes out of the window as other have mentioned.
However, my question is specific to these situations. My dog seems to have quite naturally picked up this sort of sequence that MacB suggests, I guess as a result of the way I trained him, (I.e. 'sit' before 'come here', then 'heel', then 'down' over time) where he will come to me before he sits (usually quite slowly). Sometimes I just want him to sit immediately at a distance rather than come then sit.
Do any of you guys have any suggestions how to over-ride this behaviour? It's usually in high stress situations such as another dog when I want him to respond very specifically as because as I said, he tends to lose focus quickly in these situations and it's handy to be able to grab him.
Additionally do Bina, Macb, Nienke have any views on harnesses as opposed to collars or choke chains?
Thx
Slip
in my opinion if your dog is slowly returning to you then he is unhappy:
Solution never be afraid to go back to the beginning. Sit the dog in front of you with collar and lead attached give the command come and at the same time a sharp tug on the lead towards you dont go over the top as he comes to you verbal praise is needed. your praise voice must be a different happy tone to your command voice timing is most important.
Harness no good for training good for tracking.
Distance control comes later get the recall first then we will discuss distance control: Keep your dog happy when training its must be fun for you and your dog
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