My car is fine when I'm giving it gas but promptly dies as soon as I am not. Needless to say this is quite a headache when driving in the city since every red light, stop sign or slow down means I have to restart the ignition.
It also shakes like crazy when in neutral (but nmot when in gear) altho that may be an unrelated problem?
From my very limited knowledge of cars and past experience I suspect the constant dying is due to the spark plugs, which have not been changed for well over 2 years of heavy inter-provincial driving.
Attempts to discuss this with the local "mechanics" result in utterly blank looks.
I have tried " sa-PARK" and pictures of same with no luck.
Questions:
1) Am I right that this is a likely cause? and
2) How do you say Spark Plug in Thai??
Appreciate advice
Spark Plugs
Started by Sheryl, 2008-06-04 14:03
#3
Lickey
Super Member Posted 2008-06-04 14:44:29
Spark plugs along with all the othe High Tension leads coil distributor cap ect useually breakdown under load,
Sounds like it might be the carb tickover [idle speed ] might need a tweak, or the slow running jet is blocked, or the intake manifold is sucking air, I would have these checked first, and after 2 years it woudnt hurt to replace the spark plugs, Cheers, Lickey.. #4
apetley
Platinum Member Posted 2008-06-04 14:54:44
Memorise all of these, there will be a test next week.
Car รถเก๋ง Rot Gaeng Clutch คลัช Clut Brake เบรค Braake Brake Pad ผ้าเบรค Pah Braake Brake Disc จานเบรค Jaan Braake Brake fluid น้ำมันเบรค Nam-an Braake Brake Light ไฟเบรค Fai Braake Windscreen กระจกหน้า Gra-Jok Nah Rear Windscreen กระจกหลัง Gra-Jok Lang Engine Oil น้ำมันเครื่อง Nam-an Krueng Gearbox Oil น้ำมันเกียร์ Nam-an Gear Power Steering Oil น้ำมันพาวเวอร์ Nam-an Power Radiator หม้อน้ำ Mor-Naam Radiator Fluid น้ำในหม้อน้ำ Naan Nai Mor Naam Engine เครื่องยนต์ Krueng Yon Steering Wheel พวงมาลัย Phum-a-Lai Boot/Truck ท้ายรถ Tai Rot Air Filter ฟองอากาศ Fong Aggart Side View Mirrors กระจกข้าง Gra-Jok Kaang Rear View Mirror กระจกมองหลัง Gra-Jok Mong Lang Electric Windows กระจกไฟฟ้า Gra-Jok Fai Fah Fuel Injector หัวฉีด Hua Cheet Bonnet/Hood ฝากระโปรงหน้า Fah Gra-Bong Nah Stereo เครื่องเสียง Krueng Seeang Tyre ยาง Yaang Hand Brake เบรคมือ Braake Mue Exhaust ท่อไอเสีย Tor Spare Tyre ยางอะไหล่ Yaang Alai Steering Alignment ตั้งศูนย์ Dang Soon Front Bumper กันชนหน้า Gan Chon Nah Rear Bumper กันชนหลัง Gan Chon Lang Distributor จานจ่าย Jarn Jai Spark Plugs หัวเทียน Hua Ti-en Shock Absorber โชคอัพ Chock-Up Seat Belt เข็มขัด Kem Kat Timing Belt สายพานไทม์มิ่ง Sy Paan Timing CV Boot ยางหุ้มเพรา Yang Hum Pow Suspension Spring สปริง S-Pring Leaf Spring แหนบ Nairb Rear Light ไฟหลัง Fai Lang Reverse Light ไฟถอยหลัง Fai Toi Lang Head Light ไฟหน้า Fai Naa Indicator/Turn Light ไฟเลี้ยว Fai Leeo Differential ไฟท้าย Fuang Tai Horn แตร Dae Wipers Blades ที่ปัดน้ำฝน Tee Bat Naam Fon Oil Filter กรองอากาศ Glong Naam-an #5
teej
Senior Member Posted 2008-06-04 15:46:26
yes "hua tien" aka "head candle" is correct for "spark plug."
As another poster mentioned, Sheryl, I would check the idle speed controller (or whatever derivative of such your car has -- older cars as mentioned above may have to adjust the "carb tickover" but newer cars may just need a shot of Sonax through the idle speed controller. Does your car have a rough idle (do the rpms fluctuate up and down when at idle)? Does it idle roughly and then stall at the low point? If so, I don't think it's a problem with the spark plugs, but rather a form of idle problem or distributor problem (if you have an older car). Maybe we could better help you out if you gave us more info on the car. apetly: there is one part not on your list that I had a hel_l of a time explaining to my mechanic what it was: control arm aka "peek nok." It took some time to get from McPherson strut which he knew to saying "ok, not McPherson" to me drawing a wishbone x 2 , using my fingers on top of one another and moving up and down and saying "race car suspension" and then finally pointing out the part on the lift. "Peek nok" haha... #6
culicine
Super Member Posted 2008-06-04 19:17:39
I had a similar problem on my old mini in Australia. It was to do with the electic fuel pump and poor wiring to the pump. I found this problem on the start to a 300km round trip and had to keep giving in the gas at speeds up to 120 km/h. Everytime I was just cruising it would starve and would have to pump the pedal a bit. A few new wires and it was put right. What car do you have? It's hard to give advice without more information.
#7
stingray
Super Member Posted 2008-06-04 21:29:28
I had a similar problem on my old mini in Australia. It was to do with the electic fuel pump and poor wiring to the pump. I found this problem on the start to a 300km round trip and had to keep giving in the gas at speeds up to 120 km/h. Everytime I was just cruising it would starve and would have to pump the pedal a bit. A few new wires and it was put right. What car do you have? It's hard to give advice without more information. Need to know what car, model, than maybe can help #8
Sheryl
Titanium Member Posted 2008-06-04 22:08:44
It's a Sunny Nissan, manual transmission, very old (late 1980's I think).
And indeed, trouble was not due to the spark plugs as the two magic syllables "hua tien" did indeed achieve their replacement and the problem persists. It makes a huge racket and shudders when in neutral. No problem when in gear. As soon as not getting gas, regardless of whether in gear or in neutral, it dies and I have to turn the key to re-start it. As long as it's getting gas, it's fine. A little slow latley in starting up, too, but it does start. Teej...your terminaology is a bit hard for me to follow but I think the "idle roughly and then stall at the low point" is probably the one. If by RPMs you mean the speedometer, that's at 0 when in neutral (or dropping to zero if I am just slowing down). It will hoever die even short of having come to a stop, for example when I stop giving gas and break to slow down on a sharp curve, it dies on me. Basically as soon as my foot is off the gas pedal for more than a second. Apetley, many thanks for the vocab -- sorely needed -- can you add to it: carb tickover slow running jet intake manifold In case any of those are indeed the cause. I have to admit I am clueless as to what any of those three even are, let alone how to say them in Thai. I live just close enough to Bangkok that every mechanic with half a brain has gone off to work there and just far enough away to have to rely on local repair shops. The quality of which defies description save to say that even I know more than they seem to, and like most women, I know next to nothing about cars. #9
hans1977
Senior Member Posted 2008-06-04 22:21:14
Very nice list!
 I was thinking about the following adjustments after a quick read through: Sedan Car รถเก๋ง Rot Gaeng Steering Wheel พวงมาลัย Phuang-Ma-Lai Exhaust ท่อไอเสีย Tor-Ai-Sia Differential เฟืองท้าย Fuang Tai Oil Filter กรองน้ำมันเครื่อง Grong-Naam-Man-Kruang Forgive me if i'm wrong! /Hans #10
teej
Senior Member Posted 2008-06-04 22:28:20
Sorry Sheryl for not clarifying. By RPMs (revolutions per minute) I meant the other dial on your dashboard right next to the speedometer. It shows how much you are "revving" (as you press harder on the accelerator, this dial will indicate a higher number). So at idle, it should be around 800 (usually the numbers shown are 1 through probably 6 (with writing somewhere that says "x1000").
So at idle, the needle should be below "1" or at least close to it. If this needle is dropping below, say 500, and coming up again, then dropping, this could be considered a "rough idle". I suspect that the huge racket and shuddering while in Neutral is followed by the engine dying? That is because as the car idles too low, it struggles to stay on, but for some reason (the problem we are looking for) it can't and then dies. A dangerous condition especially considering that you mention it dies if you're not giving it gas on a turn -- bad situation. Maybe another member can pinpoint what mechanism controls the idle speed in that particular vehicular make and model. However, I suspect (hope) that it's just an idle problem (which shouldn't be too costly to fix -- unless you have a SAAB )Whereabouts do you live? Maybe another member can recommend a garage in your area, as it's a problem you need to get fixed asap. I think any fairly competent mechanic should be able to sort it out for you. Last resort: ask a Taxi driver who drives a similar make and model. I've seen some Nissan Sunny taxis. Maybe they could point you in the right direction. Could be something wrong with sensors like oxygen sensors, etc. but I still think it's an idle control issue. If so, it should not cost you more than a couple of thousand THB to resolve. Maybe another member can offer better advice than I can, as we have some pretty good knowledgeable members on this board and I'm no mechanic. Good Luck
#11
hans1977
Senior Member Posted 2008-06-04 22:48:51
I know it's as easy to say as it's difficult to find, but i think you have to find someone who understands cars to have a look at your car. Otherwise i think you might end up replacing parts more or less forever...
 Your problem might actually be corrected very easily and with very few tools and parts provided that you've found the right person. I know a guy like that in Chonburi, but maybe that would be too far? /Hans
It's a Sunny Nissan, manual transmission, very old (late 1980's I think). And indeed, trouble was not due to the spark plugs as the two magic syllables "hua tien" did indeed achieve their replacement and the problem persists. It makes a huge racket and shudders when in neutral. No problem when in gear. As soon as not getting gas, regardless of whether in gear or in neutral, it dies and I have to turn the key to re-start it. As long as it's getting gas, it's fine. A little slow latley in starting up, too, but it does start. Teej...your terminaology is a bit hard for me to follow but I think the "idle roughly and then stall at the low point" is probably the one. If by RPMs you mean the speedometer, that's at 0 when in neutral (or dropping to zero if I am just slowing down). It will hoever die even short of having come to a stop, for example when I stop giving gas and break to slow down on a sharp curve, it dies on me. Basically as soon as my foot is off the gas pedal for more than a second. Apetley, many thanks for the vocab -- sorely needed -- can you add to it: carb tickover slow running jet intake manifold In case any of those are indeed the cause. I have to admit I am clueless as to what any of those three even are, let alone how to say them in Thai. I live just close enough to Bangkok that every mechanic with half a brain has gone off to work there and just far enough away to have to rely on local repair shops. The quality of which defies description save to say that even I know more than they seem to, and like most women, I know next to nothing about cars. #12
Lickey
Super Member Posted 2008-06-05 01:14:31
Sheryl, are you dipping the clutch and keeping it down allowing the engine to die on sharp curves ect? dip the clutch, change gear if you need and let the clutch up to keep the engine spinning and responsive.also if you know yove got to stop, select neutral, brake with your left foot and feather the throttle gently to keep the engine running,
The latter is a GET YOU HOME GIMMICK till you can get it repaired. Or remove the air filter or pipe whatever is on top of the carburettor, get somebody to operate the acelerator and watch the movments at the carb, you should see a screw with a spring on it moving with the linkage, this is the tickover screw or engine idle speed screw, turn this clockwise half turn then start engine, if its ok, good, but if not turn in a little more, if you have to go over 12/1300 RPM the problem is inside carb. Does your car have a manual choke? [probaly not} but if it does, this has the same action of raising the idle speed, to cope with the extra fuel, try pulling it out a bit then go for a run. If this all a bit beyond you, perhaps print it off and show a falang friend, Good luck, Lickey.. #13
grtaylor
Senior Member Posted 2008-06-05 07:24:42
Very nice list! I was thinking about the following adjustments after a quick read through: Sedan Car รถเก๋ง Rot Gaeng Steering Wheel พวงมาลัย Phuang-Ma-Lai Exhaust ท่อไอเสีย Tor-Ai-Sia Differential เฟืองท้าย Fuang Tai Oil Filter กรองน้ำมันเครื่อง Grong-Naam-Man-Kruang Forgive me if i'm wrong! /Hans The final one in the full list should actually (from the Thai name) read: Air Filter กรองอากาศ Grong Ahgaht G #14
Farma
Platinum Member Posted 2008-06-05 08:31:25
On a Nissan I owned I had nearly identical problems which turned out to be a loose plug on the side of the carburetor. The plug was part of the heat sensing system for the auto choke.
Take a look on the side of your carburetor and see if there’s an electrical plug and that it’s pushed in firm. I also found the female connectors inside the plug were loose and needed a slight squeeze for them to make contact correctly. If that doesn’t fix the problem I’ve added some information from the Haynes 1980 thru 1991 Nissan Pickups Automotive Repair Manual that may be of help. Troubleshooting Engine stalls 1. Idle speed incorrect 2. Fuel filter clogged and/or water and impurities in the fuel system 3. Choke not operating properly 4. Damaged or wet distributor cap and wires 5. Emissions system components faulty 6. Faulty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs. Also check the spark plug wires 7. Vacuum leak at the carburetor, intake manifold or vacuum hoses 8. Valve clearances incorrect This is a shortened version of the Nissan Service Manual diagnostic procedure for 1990 models. Engine stall after deceleration 1. Check A.A.C. valve 2. Check idle adjusting screw clogging 3. Perform power balance check 4. Check ignition spark 5. Check fuel pressure 6. Check harness connections Hope this helps #15
taxexile
Titanium Member Posted 2008-06-05 09:20:01
this might help with translations of engine parts into thai.
carb tickover slow running jet intake manifold Edited by taxexile, 2008-06-05 09:21:20. #16
PeaceBlondie
Star Member Posted 2008-06-05 11:10:04
Do all Japanese cars have tachometers that show engine speed? My 1997 Nissan NV does not. And we can assume a late 1980's car has no fuel injection, and not many computerized engine controls.
Ever since they went to electronic ignition in the 1960's and did away with distributors with contact points, spark plugs seem to last far longer. Still, they should be replaced, along with the plug wires, every few years. When we bought the NV used, that was a standard repair to get it running well. Carburetors - I hate them. Like a rich Texan  I traded in my CBR150R for a new one when I couldn't solve my carb problems.
#17
Sheryl
Titanium Member Posted 2008-06-05 11:33:48
Sorry Sheryl for not clarifying. By RPMs (revolutions per minute) I meant the other dial on your dashboard right next to the speedometer. It shows how much you are "revving" (as you press harder on the accelerator, this dial will indicate a higher number). So at idle, it should be around 800 (usually the numbers shown are 1 through probably 6 (with writing somewhere that says "x1000"). So at idle, the needle should be below "1" or at least close to it. If this needle is dropping below, say 500, and coming up again, then dropping, this could be considered a "rough idle". I suspect that the huge racket and shuddering while in Neutral is followed by the engine dying? That is because as the car idles too low, it struggles to stay on, but for some reason (the problem we are looking for) it can't and then dies. A dangerous condition especially considering that you mention it dies if you're not giving it gas on a turn -- bad situation. The only dials next to my speedometer are the fuel gauage (left) and the temperatire (right), I don't see any dial such as you describe. Yes, the huge racket and shuddering is followed by the engine dying. I live in Prachinburi. I realize I need to find a decent mechanis and if anyone can recommend one in prachinburi I'll be eternally grateful. The thing about travelling far afield, aside from the time and inconvenience is that it is hard then to go back if things go wrong and there is less accountability when they know you live far away. I had my clutch replaced in Nakhon Pathom once only to have them call me when I was 2/3 the way home to say they had "forgotten" something (turned out to be a major costly part for whicvh i had already paid) and would I just "frop by" for them to correct it, which of course I couldn;t so I ended up paying twice for the sasme part and labor. the local folks while (a) a few sanwiches short of a picnic and (  very hard to communicate with, at least know me and know they have to live with me and that I'll be back bothering them in a flash if they rip me off or otherwise grossly screw up.How to say "idle speed" in Thai? Thanks! #18
Farma
Platinum Member Posted 2008-06-05 11:38:04
Sheryl, have you tried taking it to the local Nissan dealer? It may end up cheaper than making numerous visits to the local backyard mechanics.
#19
culicine
Super Member Posted 2008-06-05 13:35:09
Sheryl, have you tried taking it to the local Nissan dealer? It may end up cheaper than making numerous visits to the local backyard mechanics. Yes, that might cost a bit more but might also save you lots of headaches:) #20
hans1977
Senior Member Posted 2008-06-05 14:49:47
It depends if Thai or English is the reference point, of course, but i think air filter was in the list already, wasn't it?
/Hans
Very nice list! I was thinking about the following adjustments after a quick read through: Sedan Car รถเก๋ง Rot Gaeng Steering Wheel พวงมาลัย Phuang-Ma-Lai Exhaust ท่อไอเสีย Tor-Ai-Sia Differential เฟืองท้าย Fuang Tai Oil Filter กรองน้ำมันเครื่อง Grong-Naam-Man-Kruang Forgive me if i'm wrong! /Hans The final one in the full list should actually (from the Thai name) read: Air Filter กรองอากาศ Grong Ahgaht G #21
hans1977
Senior Member Posted 2008-06-05 14:59:02
No! Please do _not_ suggest anyone to drive an automatic car with both two feet! It can easily turn into a disaster!
I don't believe in breaking a manual car with the left foot either, of course... /Hans
Sheryl, are you dipping the clutch and keeping it down allowing the engine to die on sharp curves ect? dip the clutch, change gear if you need and let the clutch up to keep the engine spinning and responsive.also if you know yove got to stop, select neutral, brake with your left foot and feather the throttle gently to keep the engine running, The latter is a GET YOU HOME GIMMICK till you can get it repaired. Or remove the air filter or pipe whatever is on top of the carburettor, get somebody to operate the acelerator and watch the movments at the carb, you should see a screw with a spring on it moving with the linkage, this is the tickover screw or engine idle speed screw, turn this clockwise half turn then start engine, if its ok, good, but if not turn in a little more, if you have to go over 12/1300 RPM the problem is inside carb. Does your car have a manual choke? [probaly not} but if it does, this has the same action of raising the idle speed, to cope with the extra fuel, try pulling it out a bit then go for a run. If this all a bit beyond you, perhaps print it off and show a falang friend, Good luck, Lickey.. #22
grtaylor
Senior Member Posted 2008-06-05 17:30:31
It depends if Thai or English is the reference point, of course, but i think air filter was in the list already, wasn't it? /Hans #23
hans1977
Senior Member Posted 2008-06-05 22:35:14
I suggest we go for กรอง as long as people haven't started jumping up and down about it.
/Hans
It depends if Thai or English is the reference point, of course, but i think air filter was in the list already, wasn't it? /Hans #24
cali4995
Super Member Posted 2008-06-08 17:59:55
Sheryl, please give us an update when you have the vehicle looked at.
I can't speak for anyone else but, I'm on the edge of my seat.  Hard to say from the general symptoms, could be anything from a vacuum leak to losing power on a cylinder. Take the beast to the shop. #25
Sheryl
Titanium Member Posted 2008-06-08 18:32:32
Will do but alas, very close friend required major surgery and as she speaks neither Thai nor English I have had to be with her 24/7 for all the appointm,ents, work-ups and then the surgery...ther first 2 parts of which involved daily travel of 500 km
 Don't worry, I have giotten quite adept at managing the clutch and brake tricks (and it's a manual, not an automatic, Hans!). But I will indeed get ot looked at as soon as I can, Knock on wood my friend will be discharged tomorrow and once we've weathered the drive back to Prachin I'll have time to get the car looked at....... Will let you all know trhe results |
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