Be cheaper to mail me a water sample.
Building Our Pool - From Start To Finish
#51Posted 2009-09-14 12:38:58
That's a lot for a titration kit. Is that average price in Thailand?
Be cheaper to mail me a water sample. #52Posted 2009-09-14 13:47:43
Careful what u offer
we will see, i have time to look for different kits. #53Posted 2009-09-15 13:22:33
lots of pics today because the concrete arrived:
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Attached Files#54Posted 2009-09-15 18:11:57
The concrete mix looks very wet to me and it appears merely to be a mix of cement and water only. I do not see any gravel, nor do I see any vibrator in use getting rid of the air pockets in the concrete, or have you ordered self compacting concrete? It is not so common here in Thailand as it is more expensive. Also, how many steng is the concrete?
#55Posted 2009-09-15 21:17:09
The aggregate is clearly visible where the concrete is being poured.
#56Posted 2009-09-15 21:46:01
I dont know the answer to those questions, so i forwarded the comment to the company. thanks for asking! everything went according to plan, and the workers seemed happy about it all. It is waterproof concrete and in the contract it says it must dry a long time, so now waiting is the next project
cheers, chr #57Posted 2009-09-16 11:07:27
Answer from u-tai pools:
"Steng 240 KSC slump test 12 +-3-5 cm with water resistant chemical Here is Thailand and hot. Water is gone faster. It looks wet to get rid of air bubble also. Tom (the foreman) will cure with water." #58Posted 2009-09-16 16:27:29
Answer from u-tai pools: "Steng 240 KSC slump test 12 +-3-5 cm with water resistant chemical Here is Thailand and hot. Water is gone faster. It looks wet to get rid of air bubble also. Tom (the foreman) will cure with water." 240 steng is good but if the concrete wasn't vibrated you will most likely have air bubbles and that will make the concrete less strong. Actually, curing in the concrete is a chemical process and it takes years before the process is finished and for that water is needed. That is why one should keep the concrete wet for up to a month and preferably also cover it from direct sunshine. #59Posted 2009-09-21 16:22:53
Here are some pictures from the last few days. The work is going very fast, 4-5 workers come at 7-8 in the morning and leave at 5pm every day.
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Attached Files#60Posted 2009-09-21 17:13:47
hope the skydiver didnt impale himself on the steel.
#61Posted 2009-09-22 06:01:13
Just wondering why the formwork is blue. BTW job looks to be going really well which would have been pretty hard here in Phuket with all the recent rains although it has been OK this past couple of days.
#62Posted 2009-10-05 20:21:18
Any update or has the bad weather slowed construction?
#63Posted 2009-10-06 06:40:31
a lot has happened, but i have been too busy to update. Concrete for the frame arrived. We had 25 workers here that day, making a line from the car with concrete to the pool. The tiles have arrived. They have started making the stairs in the pool, looks great. I will put up some pics when i have time
cheers, chr Edited by chrgrims, 2009-10-06 06:40:48. #64Posted 2009-10-11 22:31:34
Hi all,
The work is going great and we think the pool will be finished within 4 weeks. The tiles are a bit darker than we had imagined. I guess this is what can happen with handmade tiles, it can be difficult to get exactly the correct color. Either way, we are happy with the color as it is now. I also did some testing of the tap water: ph 7,5-7,6 total alkalinity 80 calsium 450 So, i think we can use the tap water for the pool. I am yet to test for copper and iron, but i had a meeting with the state water analysis center in pitsanulok. they said that they test the water for our area often, and there is never excess of copper or iron. We will give them a sample for test for lead, they said this can sometimes be an issue here. cheers, chr
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#65Posted 2009-10-12 10:36:32
Don't forget that there's a waiting time until you should use your salt generator with newly tiled pools.
http://www.thaivisa....ut-t147460.html #66Posted 2009-10-12 11:47:52
ok, just read that link, thanks. its a white powder that comes off the grout, right? i guess vacuuming will be important in the beginning.
#67Posted 2009-10-12 12:28:46
You may need to soften the water a lot at first as there will be a lot of dissolved mineral in the water that can't be vacuumed. Also, remember to backwash immediately after vacuuming as you don't want that stuff mixing long term with the sand causing early calcification.
If possible, find a storage solution for gathering rainwater from your roof. The rainwater is very soft and can be used as a top-up to dilute the hard water. #68Posted 2009-10-12 12:59:09
When you say soften the water, do you mean add water with lower level of calcium? or are there other ways too? great idea with the rainwater.
#69Posted 2009-10-12 16:23:46
You will always need to add some water with lower calcium as 450ppm is a bit too high. 300ppm is what I like, maybe a bit higher on older pools. The water in outdoor pools always gets progressively harder as minerals are left behind due to evaporation. That's why you need to use soft water to dilute the existing water. Normal fill water won't work as it is already too hard, that's why a water softener is a good idea. You might already have one for the house. No reason why you can't use that water.
There are sequestering agents that help precipitate the calcium so it can be vacuumed up but I'm not really a fan as you are asking your filter to remove the calcium and calcium and sand don't get along well. best thing is to remove the excess before it even gets into the pool. #70Posted 2009-10-12 16:41:02
thank you very much for that reply, very helpful
#71Posted 2009-10-12 18:40:56
i misread the calcium test. the correct reading is 45, not 450! so, thats a lot better.
#72Posted 2009-10-13 02:28:02
In that case,forget what I said and buy a bag of Calcium Chloride.
#73Posted 2009-10-13 06:37:31
yes. i also read that calcium goes up a bit over time by itself, so we will see what happens.
#74Posted 2009-10-14 05:43:04
"Steng 240 KSC slump test 12 +-3-5 cm with water resistant chemical
Here is Thailand and hot. Water is gone faster. It looks wet to get rid of air bubble also. Tom (the foreman) will cure with water."[/quote] 240 steng is good but if the concrete wasn't vibrated you will most likely have air bubbles and that will make the concrete less strong. -------- CONGRATS CHRGRIMS.... FINALLY U R BUILDING.... rigorous vibration is a must to rid air bubbles, wonder why utai spares that expense? also, just wonder, several contractors suggest using 300 rather than 240....? does u-tai propose anything other than 240... pls? #75Posted 2009-10-14 09:59:15
i just got the answers from u-tai.
he uses 3 machines to get the bubbles out. This is no problem. It might be better to ask than to assume that no vibrator machine has been used. he gave a long explanation on steng, ksc etc, why he uses what he uses etc. He is an engineer, and he says he can give a full explanation to anyone. The problem is that most will not understand the explanation. This is me included. But if you want, send me a PM, and i will forward his email. Edited by chrgrims, 2009-10-14 10:00:49. |
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