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The urban Loy Krathong
Loy Krathong 2009 - the festival of light. Mother and child enjoys the firework by Chao Phrya River. Thailand set to celebrate Loy Krathong, the festival of light, across the country in November 2.
BANGKOK: -- Bangkok, for all its concrete and neon, still lets you wrap your worries in a leaf so the water and the night can carry them away
Monday brings the full moon of the 12th lunar month on the Buddhist calendar, the day to give thanks for another replenishing rainy season and to do some tallying and planning.
Loy Krathong has for centuries been one of Thailand's two most popular annual festivals, focusing on water, as does Songkran, but more intrinsically spiritual.
The name refers to floating the little banana-leaf "rafts" laden with flowers, candles and incense - the krathong - in the water of a river or canal. In this way, sins and ill fortune are carried off downstream and gratitude is expressed to the water goddess, Phra Mae Kong Ka, along with wishes for a happy, healthy year ahead.
Along with the opportunity for self-appraisal, Loy Krathong offers family merriment. The magic of the glittering flotillas of krathong, first experienced in childhood, doesn't fade with age. In the cloistered comfort of a dark evening, it's a breathtaking sight.
Loy Krathong has its variations across the country, and some will insist that it's best in a rural setting. The big cities will not be denied, however, and Bangkok has its own places dedicated to the spirit of the festival.
Here are a few suggestions:
ON THE RIVER
The capital's primary site for celebrating Loy Krathong is the park at the foot of the Rama VIII Bridge, where activities begin today and continue through Monday.
Things can get a little crowded and noisy, but compensation comes in the form of a procession of 15 illuminated boats beneath the bridge, each day from 6.30 to 8pm.
There are also "villages" set up to show how Loy Krathong is observed in all four regions of Thailand, complete with beauty contests and other entertainment.
For something quieter, board one of the express shuttle boats to cruise the river. The last of the regular boats leaves Rama VIII Bridge at 5pm, and the last "orangeflag" express sets off from the Phra Arthit Pier at 7.
Near the Taksin Bridge Skytrain station on Monday night you can catch, for Bt100, a special Loy Krathong boat to the Temple of Dawn, Wat Arun Rajaworamahavihara, and from there dispatch your krathong toward the Gulf.
The boat leaves every 30 minutes between 7 and 11pm. Make sure you have your krathong ready beforehand.
Wats Kalyanamite Woramahavihara and Wat Rakang Kositaram are also on the Thonburi bank of the river and welcome festival celebrants on Monday. They can be easily reached from the Bangkok side at the Tha Tien Pier.
Nearby as well, Loy Krathong will be observed at the Bangkok Noi Railway Station, KuanU Shrine and Santa Cruz Church, and the parks and riverside restaurants along Rama III Road will be in a festive mood.
IN THE PARKS
The Bangkok Metropolitan Administration keeps all 21 public parks open until midnight for Loy Krathong, and the Skytrain makes Chatuchak Park on Paholyothin Road easy to reach via Mor Chit station.
Its spaciousness ensures a lovely elemental atmosphere, and the large pond accommodates thousands of candlelit floats.
Suan Rotfai just to the north is also a great spot for the festival, though you'll need a car or taxi to get there.
Lumphini Park, with Skytrain and subway stops adjacent, and riverside Chaleum Prakiat Park on Rama III Road will be honouring the occasion too.
In old Rattanakosin, the Ku Muang Derm Canal, better known as Klong Lod, will be aglow with krathong launched from Suan Santichaiprakarn on Phra Arthit Road, Suan Saranrom opposite Wat Pho on Charoen Krung Road, and Suan Rommaneenath in Samsanrat.
Other central places to join festivities include Benjasiri Park on Sukhumvit Road next to the Prompong Skytrain station; Benjakitti Park on Ratchadapisek Road by the Queen Sirikit Convention Centre; and Santiparb Park near the Victory Monument.
Further away from downtown:
Suan Thonburirom in Prahca Uthit district
Suan Phra Nakorn and Suan 60 Phansa in Lad Krabang
Suan Seri Thai, also known as Suannam Beung Kum, on Seri Thai Road
Suan Nong Jok on Lieb Waree Road
Bueng Kratiem Park in Min Buri
Suan Kila Ramindra in Ram Indra
Suan Romane Thung Sigun in Don Muang
Suan Tawee Vanarom on Liab Khlong Tawee Wattana Road
Suan 50 Phansa Chakrimahasirindhorn on Chalerm Prakiat Road Soi 28 in Prawes district
Suan Vanadham behind Suan Luang Rama 9 on Chalerm Prakiat Soi 7
AT THE FUN FAIRS
Until Wednesday, the Golden Mount at Wat Saket (Phukhao Thong) is draped in red cloth as thousands of Loy Krathong celebrants visit the temple to pay respects to relics of the Lord Buddha.
This is the city's most elaborate temple fair, crowded but also filled with authentic fun. The grounds are a mash of stalls selling food and other goodies amid stage performances and displays of eye-opening oddities.
Chulalongkorn University on Phya Thai Road and Kasetsart University in Bang Khen are both hosting amusementpacked, studentled Loy Krathong fairs.
-- The Nation 2009-11-02
