lennya12threh

lopburi3, on 2011-03-07 11:08:17, said:

Perfect topic for me...

In my case, i only have a multiple entry marrige O visa that has not been extended and is valid until October. I plan on entering Thailand very shortly, and need a new passport as it expires soon. So if I just bring the new passport, and the old passport with the valid multiple entry visa they will stamp my new passport based on the visa in the old passport? That won't be a problem?

Also, I am not too worried about entering via swanabumi, but when I do the visa run in October to get my last 90 days, I'm worried about the corrupt folks at the Cambodian border will give me a hassle.

Any experience at the more corrupt entrance points to Thailand?

What? I'm married and got the Non Immigrant O visa. It required a minimum of 100,000 baht in my bank account and our marriage documents. It is valid for 1 year and I just have to re-enter Thailand (I do a border run) every 90 days.

Never had any lowering water levels in months, but someone earlier said that it doesn't take much water to get a bit of white residue. The window is full of the dark brown oil, there is just a bit of white rsidue on the surface level that sometimes sticks to the window a bit.

And to vocalniel's question about the 2t pump, I'm not sure what you mean but lining up the lines. I have the pump cover off and can visibly see the pump working when you open the throttle and the cable opens up the pump. I have never noticed any lines or way to line it up, just the screw and lock screw that you can adjust to open up the 2t pump more or close it off. Currently I have the screw (that adjusts how open the pump is and also how much it is opened with the throttle) open almost as much as it can be.

I will be doing a minor investigation of the cooling system and water pump soon.

Do you mean that I should take off the engine head? Do you just mean the "lid" thing on the engine block? Or do you mean take off the entire head (after taking this off you just see the piston sitting there and the rods that the head is lowered onto when re-building)?

I've seen done many times but never done it myself. I know there are two large rubber seals as well as gaskets. Would these need to be replaced if I took off the cylinder head?

I will also a Google search to verify what the head / head gasket is.

I'm just worried about taking things a part that will require new seals or gaskets if re-built because now I don't have any spares.

I will consider a major investigation and re-build parts of this bike, as I have all the tools, but when re-building I would need to be aware of any areas that need special attention, new fittings (seals,etc) or heavier/softer torque application when tightening.

Interesting. It is water cooled and the water pump is located right on the gear box (I think.) I will have to check it out. Also, yes there is that other 2T hose that goes into I don't know where. I'd like to check it out but don't feel comfortable opening this area up. The tubes runs into that stator chamber and then enters in the area below the piston head behind the stator.

Could 2T make it turn white? The only reason I'm connecting the 2t to it is because of the recent incidents where there seemed to be lack of 2T after driving it hard/wot for 30 seconds. This is with the 2t screw is set almost all the way open. So either the pump is faulty or there is 2t leakage. If you warm it and drive it around moderately or even redline a couple times and then stop and rev to 10,000 rpm, the 2t emissions are satisfactory, but if you go wot through all gears and drive it hard for a minute or so, and then stop, rev, and check, then there is no visible 2t at max rpms. I will keep on the look out for rising oil levels a couple days before changing.