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About Crossy

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  • Birthday 04/04/1958

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    Pathum Thani, LoS

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  1. It took me a loooong time to get the guys actually measuring the mix (ok by the shovel load, but better than nothing) and rationing the water, the locals just lurve the water. You need a lot less cement and water (and a lot more aggregate) than you think. My only regret is that we only bought a mini-mix, a "real" concrete mixer would have cost twice as much, but would have paid for itself by now.
  2. You need concrete which is aggregate (stones), sand, cement and reinforcing steel. I suggest you start here https://www.concretenetwork.com/concrete/concrete_driveways/basics.html many other instructive sites, try a Google. 6cm isn't even enough for a footpath let alone a traffic carrying driveway. For your materials, go to a local builder's merchant, much cheaper then the big name stores for the quantities you are looking at. If you buy from CPAC or the like you MUST, that's MUST be prepared when the load arrives, formwork, rebar, labour must all be in place, concrete waits for no man and you pay for the load no matter what. Your 3m x 10m x 150mm (sensible) drive will need 4.5m3 of concrete.
  3. Another day, another plot. Supply looks a lot cleaner on a weekday, I was thinking the spikes on the current were a measurement aberration but there are a lot fewer than at the weekend. All day. And 6 hour chunks.
  4. Interesting, I fit in multiple categories. Already had a Thai wife - OK that's a new category (Other?). To Work - and I get a better salary and pay less tax than back home. Cheaper to live - no way I could afford a home on 1/2 an acre a 40 minute drive from the CBD of London. Warm climate - what's not to like after Belgium? Had friends already in country - already had a good Far-East network in place, so 2. was not too fraught. Walked into a job within a month of arriving.
  5. Man Cave/Guest room

    We did a steel frame and roof structure, block infill (weld bits of rebar to the steel to anchor the blocks). The chickens live in it Could easily be made habitable.
  6. I'm still trying to work out what's "Smart" about this bus, it seems to be just a bus. With the taxi and tuk-tuk mafia to do battle with I would suggest it's anything but smart.
  7. Don't run outlets on anything over a 20A MCB, may as well use 2.5mm for these, run two circuits for the kitchen. Outside outlets and lights needs to be on an RCBO (separate circuit best in case of the wet getting in). Run the fans off the lighting circuit unless you're using these https://www.bigassfans.com/ Yes, retain the existing MCB incomer, RCBOs for circuits that need earth leakage (water heaters, outside outlets and lighting), MCBs for the rest.
  8. After cooking for 24 hours we have 13MB of CSV data comprising 232,207 samples (did I say it generates a LOT of data?). Loaded into Excel 2013 (does up to 1 million rows) and plotted it looks like this:- All a bit overwhelming, split into 6 hour chunks it's more manageable. All still a bit complex, but one can see known events such as our morning showers at 06.28 (me) and 06.37 (Wifey) and the same in the evening 20.15 (me) and 20.21 (Wifey). If nothing else it serves to show Wifey spends 3 times as long showering in the evening as I do (not sure if this is good or not). You can also see the initial run of the bedroom A/C after the showers. We also see garden watering going on at 16.31 (3HP pump) then the 2HP khlong pump starts at 16.37 with watering stopping at 17.11 and the khlong pump stopping at 17.33 having topped off the tank. Looking at the 00.00-06.00 graph you can see the fridge and freezer cycling and me turning on the A/C at 04.07 coz I was hot (there was a reason for being hot ). EDIT You can also see the house water pump starting at the end of the A/C run after a bathroom visit. Cripes, this really is revealing waaaaay too much information. Also, the 18.00-24.00 plot shows a definite fall off in supply voltage over the evening, culminating with our taking the evening showers at absolutely the worst time and pulling the supply down towards 190V. What does all this tell us, apart from revealing the timing of our bedroom activities (after 14 years of marriage I'm used to being awakened at all hours and being expected to perform) to all Thaivisa members? Not sure yet.
  9. The "repaired" pool pump failed catastrophically yesterday, locked solid with power on even with the cap removed it won't spin start (it won't spin). I suspect a shorted turn caused by it cooking when the cap failed. Running on the spare pump, undersized but at least it's circulating. New pump on order.
  10. A great fun show, every non-PC stereotype imaginable, oddly enough it's still very popular in India. From an (admittedly quick) google search it seems the series-4 was lost forever (apart from episode 1) in a studio fire. Apparently S4 wasn't nearly as good as the original anyway.
  11. teatime tv (2)

    I have that build of Chrome and all is working fine.
  12. Tank Float Switch Wiring

    The switch inside the float is a "change-over" type. Common goes to the motor live, then your supply goes to either the Blue or the Brown depending upon whether you are filling the tank, or stopping it over-emptying (do you want the motor to run when the float is floating or when it is hanging?). It's not difficult to swap Blue/Brown when you get it wrong
  13. Consumer Unit problems

    These are the ones in the photo https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Digital-LCD-Blue-backlight-AC80-260V-100A-volt-amp-meter-with-Transformer-coil-voltage-current-power/32340279544.html Dead easy to install, just slip the current transformer onto the bus (hopefully it will fit) or incoming cable and hook the voltage sense to L and N. They do make a 3-phase version for a more compact installation. EDIT Looking at your board I suspect you will be slipping the CTs on the incoming supply.
  14. Steve has it. The plug-in CUs don't allow you to do what you suggested earlier. You can either have a big RCBO as the main switch (2,500 Baht) and the rest as simple MCBs, cheapest way to go, but of course, RCBO trips, everything goes off. OR You can use the 1,500 Baht single-width RCBOs on each circuit (retaining the existing front-end MCB), this is rather more expensive, but it does mean you can have un-protected circuits for your freezer and the like. Trying to get this working on an existing home which was wired by a Thai will be fun. Shared neutrals are the enemy of individual RCBOs For your sub-main, I would split the supply before it enters your CU, possibly use a small CU which would allow you to still have a single point of isolation, populate it with 2-pole MCBs, one going to your existing CU, the other to the external cable.
  15. The electronics now looks like this And the software like this Datalogging_V1.9.ino