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About Crossy

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  • Birthday 04/04/1958

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    Pathum Thani, LoS

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  1. Have you tried another charger to verify that the machine itself has been damaged and it's not just a dead charger? Take the machine to one of the many places that sell chargers, ask them to test a charger on the condition that if it charges you will buy the charger.
  2. Indeed, we would need to know why you were denied. Where are you now? Do you intend trying to enter again?
  3. I think we can close this one as our OP has found the problem. I see it degenerating fast from this point.
  4. Yeah, it could well have been me. You do have to replace them but once you know where the critters like to go you can limit the task to these few places. Wifey keeps them in out display cabinets, no gecko s**t, they probably last a couple of months.
  5. Lesson learned, always investigate fully any change to a working system. Anyway, bung a couple of moth balls (naphthalene balls) in that troublesome outlet, they last ages in a sealed environment and the geckos will not return.
  6. Any modern RCD / RCBO will be fine, the instructions are a spot of a** covering by the manufacturer. Up to you if you RCD / RCBO your aircon, but we usually say that the manufacturers instructions should be followed.
  7. Find your local Thai Refined Salt (TRS) outlet. We get pool salt (same stuff) from our local place at 100 Baht per 25kg bag. We pick it up as he won't deliver less than a ton at a time.
  8. We have the "normal" 15/45 single-phase meter (50A incoming breaker). We have a fairly large home but not much aircon load (only the bedrooms) so it's rarely over about 30A. I'm assuming that the "box" they are talking about is a transformer and the supply being suggested is 15/45 3-phase (which should be more than adequate). To ensure that's going to be enough you need to do a prospective load calculation. Let me know how many bedrooms, living rooms and bathrooms you have and I can do a (very) rough calculation. Do talk to PEA before committing to anything with the neighbours, you may be able to get an adequate supply without significant outlay. Why not start a new thread over in Electrical to keep the subject separate.
  9. Net

    We're in Bangkok but TOT has been giving me problems with international bandwidth for a few days, test to BKK = full bandwidth, test offshore = pitiful
  10. Possibly For a 6kW heater you should install 4mm2 cable on a 30A breaker. For a 8kW heater you should install 6mm2 cable on a 40A breaker (you could just squeeze it on to 4mm2 cable on a 40A breaker, but if it's a new install best to go to the next cable size up).
  11. It's ok, we all sometimes miss the point (me included) The tap I'm referring to is the one on the hot from the heater into the wall which goes to the shower (near the yellow label in the second photo) since the other end is the shower mixer there's no need for that tap, nothing comes gushing out when you remove the pipe, a simple 90o fitting would work.
  12. Yup, if you look at the outlet side of the heater (left hand pipe) you can see the flexies, one to the sink, the other to the wall for the shower (no they don't need a tap it's just how Mr Pipe fitted them).
  13. It's in the cupboard under the sink in the main en-suite and just under the sink in the guest bathroom 6kW may be a bit of overkill for the kitchen sink, depends how hot you want the dish washing water. You may be able to find a smaller unit for the kitchen, but don't be tempted to use a shower heater. Our build was a first time for me too, although I'm an engineer my major was Electrical and Electronic Engineering. The saga is here:-
  14. We run it through a mixer tap, hot tap on full, adjust temperature with the cold not quite so hot water. At this time of year we have the heater on No2 (about 4.5kW IIRC), plenty of flow from our 750W Grundfoss pump 1 floor down. If you're one of these people who likes the shower hot enough to take your skin off at 4,000 L/s then get the 8kW unit