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About eyecatcher

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    flippant member

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    Chiang Mai

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  • Location
    Chiang Mai

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  1. We had a standard internet cable installed 2 years ago by TOT and whilst paying a bill recently I asked about the fibre optics etc. they said "oh, no promprem we can change you, everything fibre optics now" "how much" "all free" "leally" (me taking the pish) "only pay for new modem 300bt" "ok..do it" and so, last week, they came, three days later and installed a new fibre optic from the source, and rewired me a new modem. Exactly same strength 8mb and no change to our bill, still 690bt (i think) I am not a stones throw from BWT also and has not dropped out for me during any thunder storm, my photos are uploading in 2 seconds, as opposed to 45 seconds for the last 2 years. so, if you dont have fibre optics....go and change it for free (300bt for the modem) i now have a spare modem...what to do with it? well done TOT
  2. you are using the wrong screw all together sorry. self tappers are not for wood, they are for metal and have an equal shaft width. wood screws taper and are designed to pull through wood. self tappers will never pull throu wood as well as a pilot hole, which is very necessary, I always pull the screw through candle wax first; if there are no buddha candles in your house then dip it in washing up liquid...they should glide in.
  3. In an external situation its not normally necessary unless you are bothered by stains. Those HG products they sell are very expensive for a half litre and i think more geared towards sealing a kitchen worktop or bathroom travertines and the like. For a large external area you are probably best spraying with a water repellent or silicone sealer which will hold "some" of the water until it evaporates. Also some brush on applications. Go to a global you will literally spend an hour just looking at all the sealing products by Lanko,sika,crocodile,sista and much better priced
  4. wow thats a bit dramatic.... so; your plan, which direction are you leaning towards?
  5. rule of thumb is never to buy anything that has been opened.....people do open boxes and steal spares, Having said that.... I always open a box to dig out the instructions so I can educate myself about the appliance instead of wasting time asking questions to a smiling moron
  6. ^^ Actually what they have done is create two designated u-turn lanes so there are three lanes in lieu of two. They have now enabled a quick u turn back in both directions which massively alleviates a backlog. thats a thumbs up for me. and to go further with their road safety campaign, they have also erected large (out of scale large) off putting signs on the Mahihol road warning that driving too fast leads to a crash......whatever next ........... well I will tell you and this shocked me. There is a sweeping crash barrier a bit further on from Global house. now that section of road is a racetrack but dont you think that installing spinning bobbins (as they did 2 weeks ago) encourages a bit of speed around that bend. go and look...you will see one exactly like this Just wondering if a farang road engineer has got a job in the transport office and is now pointing out the bloody obvious.
  7. Thankyou for elabourating on my final sentence. The thin reinf mesh is generally referred to as wrapping fabric/mesh
  8. 50mm connie is generally sufficient on top of the planks but dont go less. Your aggregate content will be 40mm down so you dont want to be seeing it grinning through. As for wedging or propping i dont think its nrcessary. It only wobbles when walk over one corner so when your topping is poured there is no way anything will ever wobble. But dont forget to include some wraping fabric before the pour.
  9. As a guide for costs you can reckon on tiles costing average 150/300bt m2. Labour on those 170/250bt m2. Concrete for a 100mm slab with readymix will be 200bt m2 but you need a full shitload. Handmixing half that rate...but then you need the greedy labour who will arrive at 11 leave at 4 and charge you 1000bt per man.....usually send a team of 4 to do a two man job. So budget on 750bt m2 then sit down and chuckle when you are quoted 1500bt m2 Then go and diy for 400btm2
  10. Has anyone had any experience ordering laser cut acryllic signage as opposed to vinyl banners.? After 6 years; and 2 large vinyl banners 4mx2m they always concede to the sun and the wind, (shrink, fade and fly away) so this time I want a more robust 3D sign....quite simply just our logo. Some chancer; for a 2m long logo on a 1000bt new shera backboard wanted 39k baht......hahahahahah.. To put that in perspective, a vinyl banner would cost about 3500bt and if I went to my kitchen granite people it would cost 12k for the same area Any recommendations for sign makers around the city?
  11. If you have ever confronted a piece of glass 2mx 1.8m at only 4mm thick you will appreciate very very quickly that it weighs more than you could ever move on your own. You are talking like the weight of a bag of cement and trying to carry or move it with your palms together pressing on the glass. Try it on the edge and you can lose your fingers in a second. I ordered the glass for our house in large sheets so we could just cut it up...but moving one piece just 6 inches nearer the wall entailed me and the wife trying to do it together in a carefully planned proceedure to prevent serious accidents. loading it onto two old bike tyres and slide is my tip Its not a job to be taken lightly believe me. acryllic glass is an alternative but i understand you often get the "end of the pier" hallof mirrors where you are going to look a complete spacker
  12. you can buy acrow props in Global...........jing lor! traditional ones though, your picture relates to what a ceiling fixer might use.
  13. Maybe I am different but i had to show my crew where i wanted to see the bubble on the level and that represented a 1:40 fall. You have to remember its a given that all their new buildings will settle a couple of inches bringing the drainage down or breaking its back. Level is as good as running uphill. I had no qualms telling my team to keep altering it and it doesnt help when the septic tank decides to float up a foot aswell. As the above poster states...we pay and the customer is always right.
  14. The lights on but no ones at home......another thing to check
  15. Sounds like you just want to saturate the sub floor which already has the pipes installed. If you just think about how much you would use in 1m2 and I would say 1 litre is sufficient then go an check the dilution rates on the product. So you check a 1 litre can of pesticide and it says dilute 30 times so you have 30 litres then that would cover half your house. On that basis you would go for 2 litres.........but I think the sub floor pipes will already be spraying out the first 5 metres before liquid gets 100m down the line so double up on your quantity to be sure it gets all the way around. When my sub floor was drenched (about 50m2) it appeared they filled a 40 gallon drum (150 litres) and just emptied it (3 litres/m2) just goes to show, you think 1 litre/m2 and its probably nearer 3 litres/m2