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eyecatcher

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About eyecatcher

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    Chiang Mai

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    Chiang Mai

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  1. Adding an inner wall of AAC block to a red brick house

    Termites have eaten half the wallplate and some of the purlins. I underestimated what they can do in 3years. The roof has dropped an inch on a hip and i was unable to jack it up. Every steel stud now directly supports one rafter just in case any futher infestation occcurs
  2. Adding an inner wall of AAC block to a red brick house

    I have just framed out my timber house this week with 2*1 steel and insulated it. It was a structural job though not cosmetic
  3. Adding an inner wall of AAC block to a red brick house

    that metal channel is actually a sheeting rail and used as a tiling batten on roofs here. metal stud channels for framing are actually akin to c channels.
  4. gee'oer yer gravely ole bugger
  5. Its sounds to me you have answered your own question (and I agree with you) but I often get frustrated with people calling everything cement or concrete and vice versa. for the record concrete without the gravel is called mortar (gobbo) and thats what you lay bricks with. cement is a component thats all, like water and sand concrete is a mix of 4 components; cement; sand, gravel, water so as you have said and I agree, you need to simply make a mortar mix to fill those widish cracks
  6. Adding an inner wall of AAC block to a red brick house

    I will agree with two above that "dry lining" is by far the best and least messy option. I am doing something similar myself with an old wooden house. I have used traditional 2x1 steel and framed out all the walls and then stuffed a 3 inch mineral fibre insulation behind. I will be plasterboarding and/or teak cladding mine internally but i can tell you its so quick and nothing apart from a sweep up as regards mess. I wouldnt want to retro fit q cons, yes they are easy but unless you intend to gut the place because to render the walls you have get everything out then think about it..you will be replacing a lot more than just the walls...you will need further accommodation aswell. Lining out the existing you can simply re fix your electrics in almost the same position and you only need to lose 50/75mm of floor space. blocks will lose you a lot more.
  7. Sealant for grout in bathroom

    I bet I am younger than you so my hand doesnt shake as much!
  8. Makita vs Dewalt

    Thanks for that Bob; that sums up my thoughts on Maktec; that its the Makita 2nd grade. I have a few maktecs and price to value I think they are ahead of makitas or any other brands. infact I have many different brands Stanleys, hitachis,maktecs, makitas;Px and for diy they are pretty much of a muchness. Its the long slog of daily use that sorts the men from the boys though and if thats the case I would stick with Makita or Bosch
  9. Sealant for grout in bathroom

    I once bought a grout removal tile, with its shiny serrated tungsten carbide tip, Unfortunately it doesnt plug in anywhere...'king donkey work I can tell you pretty sure in the end i opted for a new tiling scheme instead. my advice to myself for future reference would be to use a very thin grinding disc and a very steady hand
  10. well a perforated land drain is to carry water from the surrounding soils away...so the perforations are always on the upper 270 degrees. the lower 90 degs needs a surface to carry water away and not back into the soil. you can buy perforated drains here but not at the big box stores. I have seen 100mm and 75mm diameter pipes. they are designed with oval slots here but really its no big deal just to use an 18mm flat wood bit and drill away. i did the same to make my soil vent pipe as they dont have balloon cages here. you can also buy a perforated flexidrain, smaller diameter that they use for drip watering but not sure where I have seen it...maybe the local gardener markets
  11. Gas hob fails to light-thermocouple?

    thats probably what Global expert was telling me to do....unscrew it and use an ignitor. question then: the thermocouple is a safety feature though i dont see what its doing. if we already have the safety cut out on the gas bottle regulator does that mean the thermocouples are really for direct gas supplies.
  12. I use borax mixed with icing sugar if I want to get rid of ants but my termite infestation is timesensitive so i want them dead there and then. they were hit 3 times, first the hand held chaindrite nozzle, them i did a full spray of chaindrite 30 then a few days later the chloropyrifos. lots of home made products that kill termites including salt and aloe vera gel but i dont want to be blathering aloe vera gel on a house full of wood. no evidence that I have termites active now, 7 days later, a couple of jingjoks dead on the floor, someflies and a cockroach. I went in today for 15 minutes to do some measuring up and got a headache and was drowsy all afternoon. dangerous stuff. 14 days I was advised not to go in.
  13. Gas hob fails to light-thermocouple?

    yes those varmints are.........what exactly are varmints?
  14. Gas hob fails to light-thermocouple?

    I dont have a problem with the ignitor/battery, and I shouldnt have the hobs only 8 months old. I do prefer the lighter gun tho if ever the battery fails. I was at Global today and i was just looking at another display hob. "Expert" comes along so I attempt to discuss with him. I know the white ceramic stick is the ignitor and the black one is the thermocouple., but he just kept saying safety safety. I kept saying thermo-couple..... he tootles off and comes back with gun lighter as the answer to my problem......I then place my fingers on the controls and say "knob; knob head" oh dear.
  15. Gas hob fails to light-thermocouple?

    Thats a great idea, as I would never be able to match the part to a Lazada website. thanks
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