Jump to content
Thailand Visa Forum by Thai Visa | The Nation
  • Announcements

    • Tech Doctor

      Thai Visa Website   09/30/2017

      In honour and respect of the late HM Bhumibol Adulyadej Thaivisa will make all sites greyscale for the period of October

eyecatcher

Advanced Members
  • Content count

    3,658
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

2,084 Excellent

About eyecatcher

  • Rank
    flippant member

Profile Information

  • Location
    Chiang Mai

Previous Fields

  • Location
    Chiang Mai

Recent Profile Visitors

16,683 profile views
  1. Stick welding a pool fence

    life is much easier making balustrade panels if you have a couple of sash cramps. when steel heats up it deflect and bends and your baluster at one end may look like its 10mm longer! sash cramps will hold your frame in place as you burn. work from the ends in..left then right alternating if you can. I am 20 hours of practice away from becoming proficient but you learn more when everything goes wrong dont you.
  2. Building a base for two 2,000 liter water tanks...

    There are several options and your choice is determined by its position and/or the ground condition. The cheapest and easiest option is simply to stone up a hardcore base. It maybe you have really good ground, or it maybe sited on a former driveway area. 3 or 4 inch of crushed or even road stone can do the job However this method has disadvantages. with a weight of 4 tonnes on it there is lkely to be some amount of compaction that may need some topping up attention in the future especially if the fines can be washed away with rain. Your standard method would be a reinforced concrete slab. Crossys 4x2m slab seems ideal if those tanks are about 1m diameter. For that weight you need to be looking at a minimum of 150mm thick concrete. You can shutter it all around with a masonry wall on it own footing if you prefer. Build the wall and just infill with the stone and concrete and A142 mesh (200x200) Another option would be to buy 3 or 4 precast concrete floor planks or paving slabs; prepare a stone and sand base, very cheap and create what is in effect a small patio. you can top up over the concrete planks with a concrete mix of course to bond the planks together. And then there is steel. make a frame and deck it out with shera planks. Another easy option that doesnt involve the mess of concrete though the steel deck may need to be supported on concrete strip footings or pre cast stub post bases. just a few ideas there.
  3. Only a Falang ...

    ..and if those Qcon fixings are no good the whole lot is screwed. I didnt appreciate the lekky panel was so low, you could have sat it on a chair
  4. would these bulk cutters cut the locks

    I want to know whats behind the door? the original rim catch from circa 1960 leads me to think it could be a stash from the great train robbery
  5. Live Edge Tables

    Make sure you choose a good piece, look underneath. You will find a lot of those long tables have serious "shakes" and they make an attempt to butterfly/double dovetail the joints together. Nothing in this world will keep water out of a shake. Thats a red flag for me aside of the 30k baht price tag they want for a 6m table top
  6. would these bulk cutters cut the locks

    If you look at the packet it actually says maximum cutting is 3mm so basically they are not much better than wire cutters. In the UK they would be taken off the shelves under the trades descriptions act "bolt cutters" hahaha
  7. would these bulk cutters cut the locks

    I would say you can rip that lock off in less than 5 seconds. Big screwdriver down the back of the hinge and yank it off. The padlock also looks very flimsy. Again could easily force it open with another tool. Regarding the bolt cropper. No chance of cutting the padlock. Its way too small. Need one at least 600 long to get leverage on it. I had a small one for rebar. 4mmm was the most i could cut with my strength. For a neater job use a grinder
  8. Foundations for wooden decking

    rather than concrete blocks as a support a better idea is to use the square stub post foundations with the metal ties on top. this becomes foundation and upright supports in one and easier to adjust to your desired height. when you get your 4 corner posts(and 2 in the middle) set up then someone can simply burn a frame together or you can do it yourself with timber (more expensive and requires more maintenance) shera/dura is notorious for breaking but the product is not at fault its the spacings. most people buy the cheapest thickness to their cost. always go for the 22mm or 25mm, and dont let the support centres be greater than 400mm....300 is perfect.
  9. QCon 10 cm Blocks - hanging load

    Sounds like most of the load will be a vertical load so the only concern is about "shear" on the bolts. laterally, there will be a negligable force (if I am imagining this correctly) I am a dubious about those qcon metal plugs, they are quite sharp and whilst they bite in quite well I also think they could act like a chisel and pare off the aerated concrete
  10. Steel bridge

    to be clear the 150mm height is your strongest position. another idea would be to set up 4 channels with 2 in the middle back to back. inside the flanges you can set up a few concrete planks at 50mm depth as permanent shutters and then you can mix insitu concrete to fill up the remainder 100mm. what you have then is a very strong steel and concrete structure. 4 channels and half a dozen concrete planks cut in half
  11. Counter top height ?

    Its actually a cassette unit. The architrave you see will be about 20mm running all around and this would sit up against the tiles. Any careless drips would hit the architrave and if not sealed find its way inside the carcass. but it cannot be set back thats the design, much neater in my opinion.
  12. Counter top height ?

    The fundamental problem is as you know the worktop is too low and modern units are not designed to be compatible. Had they built some support walls under then you could have had a 50mm thick concrete slab instead of 100 If it was me and i had just moved into your kitchen i would think ok that drawer unit just cost me 5-6k. I could demolish that worktop and build block support partitions and a new concrete top for half that price. Plus the tiles are not a good contrast against the white units. If you are going to spend upwards of 10k on a few doors and units then you want to look at it every day and be proud of it NOT looking every day and regretting getting the hammer out.
  13. Counter top height ?

    referring your photos.... the drawer unit as indeed the other cupboards ideally need to sit on a block laid flat. the drawer unit inparticular will be heavy and I can see it has the pre moulder 20mm architrave around it. so why not lay a 75 or 100 block on the floor and then sit on your drawer unit. the architrave will sit neatly against your existing tiling so you just need to build another side wall, can be the same blcoks and use the same tiles. then you will have your 100mm tiled frame on all sides...surely? Incidently those drawer units need to be screwed sideways into the two support walls otherwise it will tip out.
  14. Solar Water Heaters

    The first time I saw this idea...(and theres loads of you tube videos showing how to make it) I thought it was so brilliantly obvious I wondered why Ii hadnt thought of it myself! Actually I thought this is going to impress the inlaws out in Isaan in the middle of no where with no hot shower. Then I saw so much negativity about it, it wont work, you need to spend on a boatload of electrical gubbins to save it, you need to keep moving it every day with the sun, change the angle, you have to paint the tube, you have to use clear on and on. For an out in the sticks makeshift hot water water system on the cheap I thinks its viable but then again anyone can just go and buy a shower heater for 2k and its done.
  15. Counter top height ?

    So in your kitchen the wife gets the sink and hob side and you get the hassled by the vice squad
×