sappersrest

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  1. thermocouple Very similar to this http://www.screwfix.com/p/standard-universal-thermocouple-900mm/89191
  2. If yo go down the route of putting a membrane underneath the existing purlins. the membrane will have to be supported from underneath as if was siting on the original purlins, for it to work ok it will have to be taught other wise it will sag and tear.
  3. Fixing instructions for those interested. http://www.sherasolution.com/uploads/download/16/zedarinstall.pdf
  4. Lanna Hospital A useful bit of info on clinic times and doctors attending. http://www.lanna-hospital.com/lannahospital/html/Time Schedule/2559/ตารางออกตรวจแพทย์59.PDF
  5. As poor Carls heead is in a spin , I have started a new thread which will be of interest to others embarking on the same route. You could if you wish pick parts out that are relevant and use it as your specification to your contractor. http://www.ardexcpdacademy.com/LinkClick.aspx?fileticket=QuVvzNyzHSQ%3d&portalid=2
  6. Curing times for pool tiling It is important to ensure that the pool tank has completed most of its drying shrinkage before any rigid finish is applied. Clause 7.3.2.1 of BS 5385: Part 4: 2009 recommends that the following minimum time intervals should be allowed to elapse between the successive stages of construction with reinforced concrete pool tanks constructed as water retaining structures. Between the curing of the pool shell and rendering or screeding at least 6 weeks. Between completion of rendering or screeding and the commencement of tile fixing at least 3 weeks. After the completion of tile fixing and the commencement of grouting at least 3 days should elapse. Between completion of the grouting, movement joints and filling of the pool at least 3 weeks should elapse. It is important to note that these minimum time periods are under good drying conditions (20°C and 65% RH) should be considerably extended under cold and damp site conditions. Note than in some countries a 6 month drying period is recommended for concrete. A useful tip for others try and specify one manufactures system for best results. though in Thailand it could prove difficult. http://sikaceram.com/en/systems/swimming-pools Both Sika and Ardex are world leaders in pool products and have good customer support.
  7. So long as there is a waterproof additive in the mortar mix extra sealing is not necessary,The tile adhesive possibly will not work. If says don't use a sealer on the tin then don't. Your choice of grout is important try to go down the 2 part epoxy route,no mater how corrosive your water gets it will not effect the grout. If you do try to experiment a couple of days won't be enough. There are certain time spans you must adhere to between render, tiling ,grouting and filling. This info is available on the net via tiling associations of various countries. Important when filling, fill slowly certainly not more than 750 mm in 24 hour period, 30 mm per hour is best. Chemical leakage from the cement will generally occur only when the water is corrosive.That is why a top quality grout is important as well. Sulphate resistant cement really should be used in the construction process, the reason it is not used here very much is because of cost, this is because the slag ash mixed with the cement is imported from Japan.
  8. Once you get into it looking after your pool it can be very rewarding. Ps how are the reed beds doing its a part of water treatment that really fascinates me but never got to grips with.
  9. True to my word I have used the services of this great enterprise several times ,all I can say is fantastic.
  10. Remember using hydrochloric acid will lower your total alkalinity Using dry acid sodium bisulphate will raise your t/a. Your t/a at present is about spot on could go a little higher but certainly not any lower as you will have trouble maintaining a stable pH. Even diluted hydrochlocric acid will destroy the squeeze rubber in the pump and feed lines.(Used to be a nice little bit of extra on service visits i.e. 4 times a year instead of once) One other thing to check is the base of the pump ,sometimes there are two little pins these form a volt free contact, if the pump should leak contact across the two will stop the pump. If you do obtain squeeze tubes locally remember the internal diameter should be the same as this determines the output of the pump as well as the motor speed ,buy by the meter it is much cheaper. Good luck Frank
  11. The only thing I can see in the manual that may have affected the ability of the the equipment is that maybe the manual acid dosing mode has not been set back to auto. Ok now for the very bad news, 33% acid should not be use to dose directly into the pool, as you are probably aware it gases off terribly , in turn the fumes will destroy every bit of metal in your plant room, and will coat everything in a slimy gung. Even in the commercial world this is diluted down by at least 30-1 before use . Peralstaltic pumps and hydrochloric acid do not get on very well , the acid makes the rubber squeeze tube porous this will in turn make the roller assembly brittle reducing the life of the squeeze rubbers down to a matter of a couple of months instead of the six monthly replacement time ,the rollers should last certainly a few years depending on use. The two best acids for you to use will be Sodium bisulphate granuals dissolved in a small day tank, and pump from there. My choice of acid would be 26% or 18% sulphuric acid if you can it is a good acid to work with and does not gas off.,this can be dosed directly into the system, like all stuff we put in our pools the downside is it will add unwanted bits in this case sulfides, but with regular maintenance backwashing etc it should not be a problem. As perhaps as a matter of course it may be prudent to order in some spares squeeze tubes rollers injectors and a spare roll of tube as the acid will have destroyed that as well.
  12. This company do an app for calculating chemical usage looks really good at 6 pounds a pop it can't be bad. http://www.lowrycg.com/pool-acid-dose-calculator/ A good read for all pool owners http://dl.lovibond.com/handbuch_gb.pdf Lovibond also do a really good app for calculating the pools saturation index its called pool M8 if you like to go that deep into pool chemistry it was free.
  13. Just had a quick read through manual for your controller, the pH could be high due to an incorrect setting in the buffer/ acid plus menu. Certainly add more salt up to 4000 ppm. Hardness should be slightly higher this can be addressed by the use of calcium flakes.or using calcium hyochlorite as an aditional chlorine doner Reduce pH to 7.2 Cynuric acid perfect reading don't let it go above 80 ppm T/A good. What acid are you using? Perhaps raise the cl levels up to 3ppm then let the controller maintain it Will have another proper read through your manual tomorrow in case the glaringly obvious has been missed.by the way it is probably one of the best I have read.
  14. These are approved designs and should not present any problems re approval.
  15. Do you have a problem with common area pools be it with in condos or shared facilities in moobahns. There is a wealth of expertise in this forum who may be able to help. However you must supply as much info as possible . Pool size volume if possible type of disinfection and most importantly as many photos as you can possibly take of pool plant room filters etc. We are not interested in any legal or contractual issues just the facts.At some time in the near future I will try and produce a questionnaire so as only the facts are considered. Happy and safe swimming to you all.